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Winter - Safety and Maintenance Tips
Heat Loss/Ice Dam Signals This picture taken on a morning where temperatures drop and frost forms on the roof decking.  Evaluate your attic heat loss without an infrared camera early in the winter season, prior to snow accumulation to pinpoint your heat loss chaseways.  Once snow has accumulated it will melt the underside portion of the snow, creating the ice flow. Ice flows are blocked by cold eaves, gutters and roof intersections and back up under shingles and potentially backing up inside only to melt again and leak down exterior walls and ceilings.
Air leakage via bypasses from the home into attic spaces is the culprit of ice dams and increased energy bills. Regardless of levels of insulation, air leaks account for the majority of heat loss and are one of the reasons for increased moisture/mold accumulation on the underside of the roof decking. For more information on Attic Air Leaks & Ice Dams solutions - click on the State of Minnesota - Ice Dam facts in the Resources & Library tab on the left.

Natural Gas Meter Safety - Keep your gas meter clear and dry - Info by Xcel Energy   Keep the vent dry and clear of snow and ice at all times to avoid the potential for dangerous indoor gas buildup.  In the photo, the arrow (white) points to the meter's gas pressure regulator vent.  The vent can become plugged when ice and snow melt during the day and refreeze at night.  Xcel recommends keeping the entire meter assembly clear of snow and ice as well.  Check it regularly to ensure it is free of ice and snow.  Evaluate your meters position and potential for ice buildup if it is located directly under roof eaves (snow melt) to avoid melting precipitation.  If you notice ice on your meter or are concerned athat the meter's regulator vent may be blocked, please call Xcel Energy at 1-800-895-2999

Furnace Safety & Maintenance Check  Extend your equipment life, improve safety & efficiency. Costly winter emergency repairs $$$ can be avoided with regular maintenance.  Your mechanical contractor/Utility Maintenance Program should perform; Measure carbon Monoxide levels/presence - Combustion chamber/heat exchanger visual inspection for corrosion/rust - Check burner flame for proper characteristics; including gas and air adjustments - clean burner. Check pilot/igniter operation and clean. Check motors, oil as needed - Replace belts.  Check venting/draft of combustion byproducts. Remove/clean dust and scale from burner compartment and other key parts as needed.  Check flame sensor or pilot safety timing and replace thermocouple, as necessary. Check and clean blower wheel. Replace filters. Restart and check operational sequence, including safety controls and thermostat. Provide a written record and a furnace TAG/Label of measures taken w/date of service.  If you have a humidifier mounted on the side of your furnace - have them inspect and clean components within the unit.  Replace drain lines.  Replace media pad/water panel (microbial growth)  A Safety and Maintenance Check typically costs from $115 to $125.  Ensure your Carbon Monoxide Alarms/Monitors are not past their expiration date. For more information on Carbon Monoxide Alarms/Monitors SEE CARBON MONOXIDE tab on left.
Air Conditioner (Exterior Compressor)  Covering/wrapping your exterior compressor is not necessary and if not removed early enough in the spring moisture may cause corrosion/rust of the interior components.  If your placement of the compressor allows for dripping snow/ice from the roof you can place a piece of plywood on top of the compressor.   After the cooling season turn off the circuit breaker that serves your air conditioning unit or at the electrical disconnect located within sight of the exterior compressor.  This saves a bit of electrical consumption from a small crankcase heater inside of the outside compressor and may inhibit rodent infestation/wire damage.  For start up in spring make sure that the outside temperature has been 65 degrees or higher for at least 24 hours - Ensure your thermostat for cooling is OFF - Turn power ON for at least 24 hours ensuring crankcase heater operation. 
Water Heater Maintenance  A water heaters protection against excessive pressures and temperatures is the temperature & pressure relief (T&PR) valve (Red Circle on top of WH)  First of all, make sure you have a T&PR valve installed and the discharge tube (3/4 min. diameter) extends to at least 6 inches above the floor and terminates at an adequate drain.  Water heater manufacturers recommend operating the T&PR valve annually to make sure it is operating properly. Certain naturally occurring mineral deposits may adhere to the valve, blocking the waterway, rendering it inoperative. READ your manual for USE & CARE GUIDE.  Stand clear of the outlet as the water discharged will be hot - slowly lift and release the lever handle to allow valve to operate freely and return to its closed position.  If the valve fails to completely reset and continues to release water, immediately shut off the manual gas control valve and the cold water inlet valve and call a qualified contractor to evaluate, and or replace valve.  If T&PR valve is dripping or leaking, do not operate and call a qualified contractor to replace. Consult you water heater operation manual for complete information and directions.
Water heater manufacturers recommend draining and flushing every 6 months to remove sediment which may build up during operation. (Drain valve - circled on bottom of WH) Sediment buildup in the tank creates a 'rumbling' noise and may cause premature tank failure.  Follow directions on 'draining and flushing' in your homeowners manual.
For complete water heater maintenance - consult your homeowners manual. 
Safety Tips
An anti-siphon valve is a device that prevents liquid (in this case, water) from returning to the line from which it came if a siphon action occurs.  Frequently required on outdoor irrigation systems to prevent possibly contaminated water to be drawn back into the water supply lines (potable water supply)  if a water pressure decreases in the water supply line.  It is not the same as a check valve. Anti-siphon valves open to the atmosphere when there is reduced or no pressure in the line.  For example, with an anti-siphon valve installed on the exterior hose bib and you shut off the water you will see a discharge of water around the valve - ensuring the 'backwash' of the hose does not compromise the inner potable (water quality)  water quality. Extreme violation (without an antisiphon); connecting a weed killer applicant w/nozzle to the end of the garden hose without an anti-siphon valve.